About This Route
Prodigal Son offers a stunning 13-pitch adventure up Angel's Landing's east face in Zion National Park, graded 5.11c or A3 aid. Established in 1987 by Jim Beyer and Tim Martin, it features overhanging dihedrals and finger cracks amid massive roofs. Access via the Angel's Landing chain section and a bushwhack to the base, about 1.5 miles from the Grotto. Rappel descent shares anchors with Moonlight Buttress. This route demands big wall skills; expect 10-18 hours round trip. Secure an NPS backcountry permit for any bivy, and adhere to Leave No Trace by burying human waste 6-8 inches deep away from routes.
Safety Considerations
Steep cliffs and loose rock dominate; NPS reports falls from similar exposures cause fatalities. Helmets like Black Diamond Vapor are mandatory; test pulls on suspect holds. Overhanging terrain increases swing risks, so place directional gear. Dehydration strikes fast in Zion's low humidity; carry electrolyte tabs and drink frequently per REI hydration guidelines. Monsoon lightning from July-September has grounded parties; monitor Zion's alert system and descend early. Flash floods in Pine Creek below can strand teams post-climb. Fatigue from roof pulls leads to errors; rotate leads and use ascenders like Petzl Croll. Watch kids and pets away from edges, as per park rules.
Essential Gear
Full big wall rack: skyhooks, bashis, and copperheads for roofs, plus standard cams to #4. Haul bag with 4L water bladder, headlamps for late descents, and repair kit for ropes. Sun hoody, glacier glasses, and wicking base layers combat UV and heat. Include SAM splint in first aid for ankle twists common on descents.