About This Route
Moonlight Buttress stands as one of Zion National Park's most iconic big wall routes, soaring 1,200 feet up the south face of Angel's Landing. First climbed in 1977 by Charlie Fowler and John Rash, this classic features splitter cracks, perfect for aid climbing at 5.9 A2 or free climbing at 5.12d. The route demands precise rack placement on the park's signature Coconino sandstone, with exposure that tests even seasoned alpinists. Approach via the West Rim Trail from the Grotto shuttle stop, a 2-mile hike gaining 1,000 feet. Expect 12-20 hours for the ascent and descent via rappels. NPS recommends permits for overnight bivis, though most parties complete it car-to-car. Follow Leave No Trace principles by packing out all waste and minimizing impact on fragile desert cryptobiotic soil.
Safety Considerations
Rockfall poses the greatest threat on Moonlight Buttress; loose flakes and holds have injured climbers. Always wear a helmet like the Petzl Meteor and communicate loudly during aid moves to warn partners below. Exposure from the hanging belays requires double-checks on anchors using Black Diamond Camalots and Metolius nuts. Heat exhaustion is rampant in Zion's desert climate; NPS advises one gallon of water per person per day, especially during spring approaches when temps hit 90F. Lightning risks peak July-September; check NPS weather alerts and bail if storms brew over the Kolob Terrace. Flash floods rarely affect this wall but can close the Virgin River shuttle. Watch for rattlesnakes near the base and dehydration signs like nausea or dizziness. REI experts stress partner rescue training, as self-evacuation from midway ledges is impossible without ropes.
Essential Gear
Pack a double rack of cams from #0.3 to #3, plus offset nuts and beaks for thin cracks. Two 70m ropes for rappels, haul bag for big wall efficiency, and a static line for cleaning. Include sun protection: Buff neck gaiter, long-sleeve REI Sahara shirts, and 50+ SPF lotion. First aid kit with blister care, tweezers for cactus spines, and emergency bivy like the Outdoor Research Alpine AscentShell.