About This Route
The Northwest Face of Half Dome delivers a 2,000-foot testpiece with 23 pitches of Yosemite crack climbing up to 5.12, blending slabs, corners, and roofs since its 1971 ascent by Galen Rowell. Approach via cables trail adds hiking hazards; summit offers epic panoramas but demands vigilance amid expanding rockfall zones.
Safety Considerations
NPS reports gear mistakes cause 40% of fatal injuries; double-check anchors on runout slabs using Wild Country Rockcentric nuts and Metolius Cams. Rockfall, at 10% of accidents, surges near Thank God Ledge; helmets essential (Black Diamond Vapor). Leader falls injure feet/legs most; stick to bolted variations if free climbing exceeds ability. Hypothermia claims lives without proper layers; pack Patagonia Nano Puff jackets. Wilderness regs ban power drills; inspect existing bolts. Sixty percent experienced climbers hurt, per NPS, so scout approaches and simulclimb cautiously.
Essential Gear
Single/double rack cams (#0.5-3), slings, 70m rope (Edelrid), chalk bags, approach shoes (La Sportiva TX4). Consult Stewart Johnson's Supertopo guide.
Emergency Tips
Rappel to stable ledge, use personal locator beacon. NPS rangers coordinate via radio; Half Dome rescues frequent due to remoteness.
Preparation and Training
Pre-climb Snake Dike for acclimation. REI big wall courses build endurance. Adhere to Leave No Trace hauling waste down.
Master these protocols to conquer Half Dome safely, respecting Yosemite's 100+ annual accidents statistic.