Mountaineering Safety: Liathach Traverse

🧗Scottish HighlandsexpertBest: Spring (March-May) firm snow; summer dry rock
Mountaineering Safety: Liathach Traverse safety guide

About This Route

The Liathach Traverse in Torridon spans the triple peaks of Mullach an Rathain (1025m), Bidein a' Ghlas Thull (1084m), and Sgurr Mor (1105m), featuring the infamous 'Pinacle Ridge' with Grade II/III scrambling. Start at the car park (NG812558), 7-9 hours to Slioch viewpoint. Torridon's sandstone delivers airy exposure; a rite for aspiring alpinists. Case: 2021 party used prusiks to aid the pinnacles, dodging a fatal drop.

Safety Considerations

Beinn Alligin nearby amplifies ticks/deer stags in rut (October). SAIS flags windslab on east faces. Corries hold cornices 2m+; probe edges. Mountaineering Scotland mandates winter ML training. Viz drops to 10m; memorize escape via Coire na Caillich. Eco-tip: Pack out gel bladders per Leave No Trace.

Essential Gear

Grivel G12 crampons, DMM ice axes, Edelrid harness, 40m rope, slings/nuts (Wild Country), Petzl William screwgate karabiners. Survival: SOL bivy, Lifesystems torch, map OS 25.

Emergency Tips

Exposure slip: Chimney belay, short-rope partner. Lost: Descend west to Lochan Fuar. 112 call, grid NG812558.

Detailed Torridon specifics for life-saving prep.

Essential Gear

  • Grivel G12 crampons
  • DMM ice axes
  • Edelrid harness
  • Wild Country rocks
  • SOL emergency bivy

Key Hazards

  • Pinnacle exposure
  • Cornices on traverse
  • Sandstone rockfall
  • Ticks and stags

Emergency Tips

Pinnacle fall: Jumar up fixed line. Hypothermia: Melt snow with stove. MRT Torridon access via NG812558.

Tags

  • Mountaineering
  • Scottish Highlands
  • Torridon
  • Scrambling
  • Exposure Safety
Liathach Traverse Safety Guide | OutdoorSafety.net