About This Route
Arrow Glacier Route, a rugged alternate from Western Breach, features steep rock bands and glacier snouts at 16,000 feet below Kibo's summit. This expert path involves mixed climbing: crack systems, icy slabs, and short pitches on basalt columns, ideal for alpinists extending Lemosho treks. Less trafficked, it offers solitude but demands precise route-finding amid crevasses. Duration: 2-4 hours from camp to crater rim. TANAPA notes frequent avalanches; climb in dry windows only.
Safety Considerations
Mixed terrain spikes injury risk; crevasse falls reported. Acclimatize via prior summits or 10-day itineraries. REI protocols stress partner checks: belay anchors with ice screws (Black Diamond). Altitude hypoxia impairs judgment; daily oximetry mandatory. Lightning storms hit rims; bail pre-noon.
Essential Gear
Petzl Sirocco helmet, Scarpa Mont Blanc boots with crampons (Petzl Lynx), ice axe (Black Diamond Raven). Nuts/hexes (BD Stoppers), cams (BD Camalots #0.5-3), 7mm perlon tagline. Gore-Tex overboots (La Sportiva G2), avalanche transceiver (BCA Tracker).