Clements Mountain West Face Safety Guide

🧗GlacierintermediateBest: August
Clements Mountain West Face Safety Guide safety guide

About This Route

Clements Mountain's West Face near Logan Pass delivers 5.7-5.9 crack and face climbing on 1,000-foot granite walls. Access via 3-mile hike from Siyeh Bend or Logan Pass, scrambling gullies to the base. Multi-pitch heaven with splitter cracks; REI classes it as intermediate alpine. Views dominate Reynolds Creek drainage. NPS climbing permits encouraged; respect closures for falcon nesting June-July.

Safety Considerations

Significant rockfall from warming slabs; climb early, use Black Diamond Half Dome helmets. Lightning exposure extreme; NPS data shows 20% of rescues here from storms. Grizzlies active; bear spray mandatory. Routefinding via cairns; carry topo from Supertopo Glacier guide. Rappel anchors bolted but inspect. Early melt increases mud/ice; crampons (Kahtoola) for approach.

Essential Gear

Double rack cams (BD X4s), nuts, 20m cord for v-threads. ATC Guide belay. Five Ten Anasazi shoes.

Emergency Tips

Essential Gear

  • Black Diamond Half Dome helmet
  • BD X4 cam set
  • Kahtoola microspikes
  • Petzl William locking biners
  • bear spray

Key Hazards

  • Rockfall zones
  • Lightning
  • Falcon nesting closures
  • Wet granite slips

Emergency Tips

Contact St. Mary Rangers (406-646-1011) via sat comm. Use cairns for descent. Medevac from Many Glacier.

Tags

  • Clements Mountain
  • Logan Pass
  • Crack Climbing
  • Multi Pitch
  • Glacier Granite
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